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Silver becomes tarnished from materials that contain sulfur. Some of the most common things that will cause your silver to tarnish are wool, felt, food (especially eggs and mayonnaise), rubber bands, latex and certain types of paints. If the atmosphere is humid, the tarnish will accelerate.

It is very important that when handling a silver item that your hands and fingers are not oily as the salts from the oil can leave permanent damage if not washed immediately.

Silver Cleaning Tips:
Always wash your silver by hand. If there is no tarnish on your silver, simply use a phosphate-free detergent to clean it. Washing and drying your silver immediately after using it will keep you from having to use tarnish removing tools less often. Be careful when washing in a metal sink as it could scratch your silver.

In the early stages of tarnish, your silver will have a yellowish tint. The darker in color this gets, the harder to remove. If left untouched, it will eventually turn black.

You can find most silver cleaning products at your local hardware store. Many of these cleaners have abrasives in them. One that we highly recommend is 3M’s Tarni-Shield Silver Polish as this has the least amount of abrasives and also contains a tarnish barrier to protect your silver from tarnishing.

Do not use polishes that have become hard or dried up. Dried up polishes are more concentrated and can hurt your silver.

Use a very soft cloth. Never use steel wool on silver. Steel wool is too abrasive and sometimes little particles from the wool get into the silver which will rust over time.

Never, never put silver in the dishwasher! There are several reasons for this. The most important being that the harsh detergent and hot water will simply ruin your silver. Patina that is sometimes applied to silver to give an antiqued finish will eventually come off in the dishwasher leaving your silver dull looking. The glue that is used on hollow knife handles will also melt at such high water temperatures. Silver that touches stainless in the dishwasher can also create a chemical reaction causing the silver to get black spots.

Silver Storage:
Your silver should be stored in an area that is free of dust.

You can delay the tarnishing process by using silica gel. These can be purchased in packets and will help to keep the humidity low, or you can purchase what is called a silica gel canister. These canisters have a built in indicator that lets you know moisture levels. A second alternative to using silica gel would be to gently wrap your silver in soft tissue (preferably acid free) and then store it in a Ziploc bag. And a third option would be to wrap your silver in a special cloth that absorbs sulfur. Pacific Silvercloth is one brand that can be used.

Never wrap your silver in newspaper or use rubber bands to bind it. These items react with silver and causes discoloration to the extent that you may have to have your silver professionally cleaned. Using plastic wrap is also not a good idea as plastic can contain tarnishing producing materials. When using cardboard boxes, use only archival ones. The non-archival ones have acids in them that will quickly tarnish

Evelyn Becker writes articles for Deutsches Haus http://www.deutscheshaus.cc which is located in St. Paul, Minnesota. Deutsches Haus offers German collectibles, souvenirs, gifts and foods.

It can sometimes be difficult to know how to clean your cherished collectible without causing harm. The following is a simple guideline for you to help you learn which way is the best way to care for your doll.

Porcelain Dolls:
With porcelain, the decorations are usually fired on, so it would be unlikely that that you would hurt them by cleaning. Use warm soapy water. If this doesn’t work good enough, try a wet eraser to remove marks. As a last resort, very, very gently clean with a low abrasive cleaner such as Tilex or Soft Scrub. Use caution because some cleansers have bleaching agents that could be devastating to antique clothing, wigs or bodies. Ultra violet rays can be very damaging to porcelain dolls, so when you are displaying your doll, avoid direct sunlight.

Celluloid Dolls:
These dolls are extremely perishable. They are easily broken and can become very brittle over time. Proper care and respect of a celluloid doll helps a perfect example remain in that condition. Heat is celluloid’s worst enemy. Keep these dolls in a cool room with good ventilation - and never store celluloid in a sealed case - it can combust!

Cloth Dolls:
Vintage cloth dolls can be worth thousands of dollars and deserve your best efforts to preserve them and prevent needless deterioration. Keeping the fabric clean is important because it’s exposing the fabric to pollutants that will weaken the material. Direct sunlight is not good for these dolls. You should also inspect your cloth dolls every now and then for insects. There are insecticides designed especially for textiles under many brands and the results can be excellent if used according to instructions.

If you decide to vacuum your doll, place a nylon screen over the fabric first to protect the delicate fibers. Most often, a good vacuuming is enough to restore a doll to display condition. If you doll is badly soiled, get the advice of a professional who specializes in preserving textiles.

Sometimes you can use an eraser or art gum, tapeten and reinger-and-absorene to clean your cloth doll. These seem to give the best results. Ink can be removed with hairspray, but first test an area on the doll to assure that no damage will occur. Apply the hair spray with a cloth, and wipe in a light rubbing motion with a clean white cloth.

For display purposes, it is best to keep them in protective cases and inspect them regularly. Moth crystals should be placed near your dolls. Many collectors recommend making a small cloth pouch, filling it with moth crystals and placing it under the doll’s hat or tying it around its waist beneath the clothing.

Composition and paper-mache Dolls:
These dolls pretty much require the same care as the cloth type dolls. They are especially susceptible to damage from temperature changes. Never store composition or paper-mache dolls in a hot or cold attic, or in a damp basement.

Most collectors will accept some signs of aging on composition dolls - fine craze lines or cracked eyes, for example.

There are many popular ways for cleaning composition, but first always test it on an inconspicuous area of the doll and work quickly - never leave any cleaning agent on the doll for any length of time. Pond’s Cold Cream or Vaseline and a soft tissue work well for these dolls. Another option is paste window cleaner but not the ammonia type. You want the old fashioned paste that you can get at most hardware stores.

Wigs can be restyled after spraying with Johnson’s & Johnson’s No More Tangles. Faded or worn-off facial features can be touched up with artist’s colored pencils. When moistened, they are very easy to apply. Crackled eyes are best left alone.

Hard Plastic Dolls:
These types of dolls are very resilient and can be cleaned with almost any soap detergent. You can clean stubborn stains with cold cream or waterless hand cleaner. Avoid chlorine, bleach and ammonia. Never use fingernail polish remover or lacquer thinner which may eat into the plastic! You can use Oxy-10 to remove stains that are not close to painted surfaces. Just moisten a cotton ball and allow it to sit on the stain for several hours. You may have to repeat this process several times. After each cleaning, wash the doll with mild soap and rinse well.

For displaying purposes, avoid direct exposure to ultraviolet light. Although they may seem indestructible, hard plastic can slowly oxidize and change color and direct heat can also cause warping.

Rubber Dolls:
These dolls will deteriorate no matter what precautions you take, but you can delay the process. Any form of grease is harmful and accelerates deterioration. If you have a “Magic Skin Doll” always wear cotton gloves when handling her. Rubbing corn starch on these kinds of dolls twice a year will help to preserve the dolls’ life. Maintain an even temperature and avoid changes in humidity.

Tin Dolls:
These dolls often have chipped paint which can happen from the metal getting cold which in turn causes the paint to lift off the face. Try to keep these dolls in a constant temperature environment.

Vinyl Dolls:
Vinyl dolls are probably the most lifelike in appearance and touch. In order to keep them looking that way, special care is needed. Extreme room temperatures are harmful. Even quality vinyl dolls subjected to heaters or air conditioners can be damaged in just a few months. Direct sunlight can be deadly. Vinyl is also sensitive to fluorescent light; use indirect non-fluorescent lights. Finally, avoid tightly sealed show cases or glass domes because condensation can form and damage vinyl dolls.

Wooden Dolls:
Chipping paint is a major problem with wooden dolls. Humidity and mistreatment are the two main culprits. Keep wooden dolls in a dry atmosphere. Expanding and contracting associated with high humidity causes paint to chip. Knocks and bumps can also chip paint, so take care in moving or displaying wooden dolls.

Wax Dolls:
Wax dolls can be intimidating to many collectors. They do require special care, but so do all types of dolls. Basic care and common sense will help preserve a wax doll in perfect condition. Of course, never place a wax doll in direct sunlight or near any heat source, such as a fireplace mantle.

The best way to start cleaning these types of dolls is to use a solution of cool water and Woolite. Saturate a cotton ball or a Q-tip and wash the wax. If this doesn’t work, try a dab of cold cream on a Q-tip, followed by a rinse of the Woolite solution and then clean, cool water. As a last resort, try denatured alcohol on a cotton ball, followed by a through rinsing. Never use turpentine to clean wax dolls because it can soften the wax!

Tips for Barbie Doll Collectors:
Remember those Barbie Dolls with the earrings and how it would eventually create green deposits around the ear? Here’s a way to remove it:

Cover the ears with a small piece of cotton soaked in Tarn-X silver cleaner. Wrap the head in saran wrap to keep the application moist. Check after two days. If the ears are still green, replace the saran wrap. If, the ears are still green after four days, repeat the procedure with fresh cotton balls. Once the green is gone, rub a paste of baking soda and water over the treated areas. After several days, flake off the dried baking soda and clean the area with warm, soapy water on a Q-tip. Tarn-X causes a chemical reaction that acts as a bleach; the baking soda neutralizes the reaction; and the warm, soapy water removes any residue. It is important to perform each step as described and to inspect the doll periodically throughout the process.

Bubble cut Barbies often have sticky or greasy faces. This is due to an ingredient being emitted by the vinyl. Here’s a tip to take care of that:

Carefully remove the head from the body and clean inside and out with a Q-tip soaked in alcohol. Dry it good and fill the head cavity with baking soda. Then replace it on the body. The baking soda will neutralize the chemicals and absorb the extracted grease.

Old Tips Recommended By Some Doll Collectors

- To remove mildew: soak in sour milk and salt. Then lay the doll in the sun. To remove milk therapy, follow with a warm soapy water wash and rinse.

- To restore color to faded cloth: sponge with chloroform.

- To soften old kid: saturate an old woolen rag with kerosene and rub in the kid.

- To clean old ivory: scrub with Ivory soap; bleach in the sun for several days, reapplying the soapy solution often.

- To remove tar: clean first with turpentine, then clean with Lux soap.

- To remove paint: Patient rubbing with chloroform.

- To restore faded calico: wash in water with a teaspoon of sugar of lead; soak for fifteen minutes and launder.

- Black taffeta is best washed in strong tea.

Hopefully, we given you some helpful information!

Evelyn Whitaker writes articles for Deutsches Haus http://www.deutscheshaus.cc which is located in St. Paul, Minnesota. Deutsches Haus offers German collectibles, souvenirs, gifts and foods.

Steins have been around since the 13th century. They are beautiful pieces of art and fun to collect. In this newsletter we are focusing on the different types of steins and their characteristics.

Mettlach Steins:
These steins are made of stoneware and range in size from 1/4 liter to 4 liters in size. They are the most well known and range from just a couple hundred dollars to many thousands depending on the type, size and rarity. They usually are etched, hand painted or have a type of “print under the glass”. After 1970, collections of Mettlach steins were started in many major museums in the United States, Hamburg, Amsterdam and many other other well known places. They can have either ceramic or pewter lids and are all beautifully decorated. They are highly sought after today.

There are many look-alike Mettlach Steins out there. These are also beautiful, but if you are only interested in the genuine ones, then here’s a couple of things to look for…

- One way to tell the difference between a real Mettlach stein and a look-alike is the glaze. If you look closely, you will notice that the real Mettlach will have kind of a matt type finish (that rarely crazes) where as the look-alikes seem to have a more thickish shinier glaze.

- Another way to tell if you have an authentic Mettlach stein is to look at the fluid level marking. Usually right next to the incised liter size, a Mettlach stein will have a “painted on” fluid mark in the form of a somewhat straight line. On a look-alike it will usually be an “incised” line.

There are several other ways to tell what you really have too, but can get quite detailed. The above two methods I mention are two of the “quick tell” ways and one of the first things collectors will usually look for.

Regimental Steins:
These steins reflect the time period between 1870 to 1914 and are mostly made of porcelain. These steins were the result of the Franco-Prussian War (1840-1871). After the war, the Imperial German Armed Forces was broken into six different divisions (Infantry, Cavalry, Technician Troops, Artillery, Colonial Guard and Supply Train) and the Navy. This is where the scenes you see on these types of steins come from. Military service during this time was considered an honor and when a reservist’s time of active duty was finished, they were sold one of these steins. The soldier would receive one of these steins of his choice and decorations which usually reflected the division he was in. After that, they became valued family heirlooms.

Many of these steins will have a translucent picture, called a “lithophane,” in the bottom of the stein which when you are drinking the last of your beer, you will see some sort of picture on the bottom.

Today, authentic regimental steins (the reproduced ones) are made in Bavaria and can cost from a few hundred to thousands of dollars depending on the rarity and condition. Steins from medical, airships and railroad units are considered more valuable than those from infantry, cavalry or machine gun units.

Character Steins:
These steins are unique, desirable and fall into the same price ranges as the regimental steins. You will usually find these in the shapes of faces, animals, towers, buildings or whatever the artist decided to make. Usually, the head or the roof is the lid. Most of these types of steins are made from porcelain, but you can also find stoneware and even some made of pewter. A lot of the porcelain steins also have lithophanes in their bases just like the regimental ones do. They are more of a novelty type of stein.

Stoneware Westerwald (Western Forest) Steins:
These are the bluish type stoneware steins that are made in the Western Forest part of Germany just southeast of Cologne. The Western Forest is famous for its quality stoneware and the steins that you see from here are the heavy-duty steins that they use in the Munich beer gardens and bars all over Germany. These steins have become Germany’s most popular souvenirs and you can find these at reasonable prices which can be anywhere from a few dollars to a few hundred dollars.

Steins have also been made out of wood, ivory and believe it or not, coconut shells. Then there’s the gold, silver and pewter steins which have been made for centuries.

Many people enjoy collecting steins as there are so many different types all at different price ranges. Whether you are a beginner or an expert, there’s always something that’s sure to catch your eye!

Evelyn Becker writes articles for Deutsches Haus http://www.deutscheshaus.cc which is located in St. Paul, Minnesota. Deutsches Haus offers German collectibles, souvenirs, gifts and foods.

When you get bit by the coin collecting bug you may find yourself spending many of your waking hours on your coin collection. You have a lot of time and money invested in this hobby of yours so you need to be as careful as you can with your collection. You need to make sure you do not hurt the value of your coins by mishandling them in any way. Make sure you do not expose your coins to the elements or store them improperly. Be careful when handling your coin collection and only clean your coins if you know what you are doing. This article will look at some of the things you can do to ensure your coins value does not go down.

The place you decide to keep your coin collection will have a major effect on their condition. The temperate and humidity need to be as close to normal as possible. Storing your coin collection in a cold garage or basement or a hot attic is not going to help keep your coins in good shape. Dry conditions should always be a priority. Wet coins may oxidize. Keep your coins in the proper atmosphere and keep them in the proper holders. Your coin collection should stay in good shape for years to come under these proper conditions.

Make sure your coins are stored in proper storage containers. Although the choices for storage are many chose something that will give your coin collection safe storage for the long haul. Choose something sturdy and strong as the place you store your coins. Keeping your coins safely tucked away in your coin storage choice helps with another problem faced by the coin collector, handling your coins.

Constantly getting your coin collection out of the storage device is hard on your coins. Your hands contain oil, and it is all too easy to accidentally scratch that prized coin with your fingernail. Excessive handling of your coin collection could cause the coins to discolor or show excess wear. You have worked hard to acquire all of those great finds so try your best to keep them in the same shape they were when you got them.

Do not try to clean your coin collection if you do not have the knowledge to do so. Many a coin has been ruined by improper cleaning methods. Always seek out an expert before you do any coin cleaning.

Keep your coin collection in good shape and it will reward you when the time comes to sell off your collection. It sometimes can be hard work to find that perfect coin so do your best to keep it in great shape.

For more information on how to value coins using a coin value guide visit http://www.find-coins.com where will find useful tips, articles and resources to help you find old coins.

For over five thousand years now, incense, just like gold, spices and gems have always been some of the most precious gifts that were given to kings and emperors. It has also been closely connected with religion. In fact, the bible mentions the Three Wise Men offering gold, frankincense and myrrh. The festivity of the Three Wise Men is still celebrated in Germany every year on January 6th.

All of this together with superstition made people believe that the evil spirits of the Raunaechte (longest nights of the year) could be driven away by noise and light. Once these evil spirits had left the house, they would burn incense to bless the home. They would take incense to every room in the house on Christmas Eve, New Year’s Eve or the feast of Epiphany in hopes of driving off evil spirits.

After the 30 year-religious war (1618 - 1648), that was fought in Germany, the medieval piety and folk art combined to bring about new ways of burning incense. Smokers, also known as “Rauchermann” were born. Smokers are traditional handcrafted wooden items that started in the Miriquidi Forest which is now known as the Erzgebirge Mountains.

Many years ago the Erzgebirge Mountains were mined for gold, tin ore and other minerals. The people that would work in the mines during the day would often be found crafting wooden toy figurines at night. Eventually, when finding gold in the mountains started to become scarce and the mines started closing, many of the miners became full time wooden toy makers.

Smokers became something the miners made and usually resembled figurines of the people that lived and worked there, such as mailmen, fishermen, shepherds and even the village people themselves.

The Steinbach family, that has been making German folk art for five generations, has perfected the art and craft of creating Smokers. Each and everyone of these Smokers created represent a certain German character in detail. Each one has a personality of its own. Steinbach Smokers are known all over the world for their quality workmanship, expertise and attention to detail.

The next time you see a Steinbach Smoker, take a closer look at it…You may see many details you never realized before. There is a tremendous amount of work involved in creating these beautiful Smokers and the workmanship can sometimes be expensive. But remember, only the best will keep and increase it’s value and that is why your most serious collectors will usually go with Steinbach.

Evelyn Becker writes articles for Deutsches Haus http://www.deutscheshaus.cc which is located in St. Paul, Minnesota. Deutsches Haus offers German collectibles, souvenirs, gifts and foods.

Crystal is glass that has lead oxide in it. The reason for adding the lead oxide is to increase the density of the glass which in turn will make the glass more reflective and add brilliance. The more lead in the glass, the more colors that are reflected. You may also notice that some crystal is heavier than others. This is because the more lead, the heavier the piece.

Hand made crystal glass will usually always have a few small “seed bubbles”. This happens when rising air gets trapped when the crystal is being made. These air bubbles can only be seen when a piece of crystal is held up to a strong light. This is a good sign that your piece was more than likely hand crafted.

Other signs of handcrafted crystal are chill marks (indentations on the surface of the glass) and flow lines. None of these constitute a flaw in the piece, but rather a sign of hand crafting.

Even the finest crystal will have minor variations in clarity, occasional bubbles, chill marks and flow lines. These are inevitables in hand blown and molded crystal.

Crystal is also “soft” because of the lead content. It will be important for you to know how to care for your crystal as even dust can act as an abrasive and cause scratches.

General Crystal Care Tips:

- Store your crystal where it won’t touch other items.

- Do not store crystal glasses upside down as it can put stress to the rim, which is very delicate.

- Carry your pieces one at a time rather than carrying as a bunch by the stems.

- If your crystal breaks and you can save it, use a clear-drying epoxy that was made just for glass and glue it back together. Then set in the sun for a bit to help the bonding process.

Crystal Cleaning Tips:

- Dust can act as an abrasive and can “scratch” the surface. Make sure you only clean with a mild detergent and use a lint free cloth for drying.

- For glasses with gold rims or an edge design, never soak in solutions containing ammonia. Stick to using a mild detergent only.

- Always hand wash when possible or if you are brave enough to put your crystal in the dishwasher (not recommended), make sure you use a very gentle cycle and mild detergent. When washing by hand and after rinsing, fill the bowls or flutes with clean hot water and leave them sit until you are ready to dry them. Using a clean cotton dish towel will polish and clean a warm wet glass very quickly. If you let the glasses air dry and then try to dry them you can wind up with smears and streaks on the glass.

- When washing, use only warm water AND rinse with warm water. Quick changes in temperature can cause cracking or clouding.

- If you notice that your crystal has a haze or clouding look to it and are having trouble removing it, you need to move to the next level and try cleaning with a hard water stain remover such as CLR or Lime Away. Some people have even used #000 very fine steel wool with a mild dish detergent to remove stubborn haze. But I wouldn’t resort to the steel wool unless none of the other solutions worked.

- When washing, make sure you have a rubber matt in the sink bottom, or a towel just incase your hands are slippery and the glass drops.

- Wash your crystal before food can harden. This will make it much easier to clean without having to put hard pressure on the item or scrap it causing scratches.

- Add a little vinegar to the dish water to keep hard water spots from appearing.

Crystal is a beautiful keepsake that can be handed down from generation to generation. Taking these extra steps will preserve your crystal for years to come!

Evelyn Whitaker writes articles for Deutsches Haus http://www.deutscheshaus.cc which is located in St. Paul, Minnesota. Deutsches Haus offers German collectibles, souvenirs, gifts and foods.

If you are deciding to become an antique dealer keep in mind that you will be meeting many different type of people, each of these people you meet have a different role in antique dealings. Many people are now finding antiques as a great way of making their rooms look that little bit more special. When it comes to antiques many people have their own agenda, many people prefer clocks, porcelain, furniture or jewelry.

Next look to make sure that you can afford to purchase items in your chosen item, you may be fascinated say by rare art, but unfortunately it may be unaffordable. Purchasing antiques usually involves money; lots of money, gathering the proper information can help with the purchase process and avoid being fooled or making mistakes. Knowing the how to speak “antique” or knowing the proper terminology and doing the proper research will help in determining what to look for and what to buy, it will also help in knowing how much the items are worth so you don’t overpay for the item.

In today’s world antiques have become big business for many people, finding that piece that was created many years ago and selling it for 3 to 4 times its value is a great way to make money. If you compare the same items today with those that were created years ago it is amazing how the older items are made incredibly well plus they fetch more money on the market.

To find old pieces of furniture you need to look in the following places, outhouses, attics or cellars, many people stored their valuable items in these places. Furniture began to bear designs such as pagodas and birds, originally only seen on items of porcelain. Antique furniture that has been covered with a finish that is long lasting will look better plus fetch a higher price. But, over time and with polishing, oak darkens into a rich brown color. Until the middle of the 17th Century, furniture was fairly simple, made of oak with peg joints.

Place your collection on display or will then be kept in a safe place. For some who have inherited a lovely collection of heirlooms, yet do not have any idea of how to look after them or even keeping up with the collection they already have as well as they should.

It’s the fluctuations in relative humidity caused by central heating that results in real damage. Consider installing a humidifier on your furnace to raise the humidity levels in winter and run a dehumidifier during the summer months. With wood antiques, you want the humidity to be as stable as possible. To take care of the antique furniture you will need to wax the pieces with bees wax, do not store the furniture in damp, bright rooms, and make sure the furniture is not in a place that the temperatures fluctuate because this may damage the wood.

There are many benefits when selling on an online Antique mall. You want to sell your antiques or collectibles online be careful and research the proper way to do this. One of the most popular places where people from all over the country display and have their antiques appraised is at the Antiques Roadshow.

David Marc Fishman helps people with how to videos. Ask an expert to learn how they do it at http://www.tipsquad.com using instructional videos.

I will start right off by telling you that the most important factor in valuing your collectible is the condition of the item.

Items that are in mint or near mint condition will always yield a much higher profit. Chips, cracks and crazing, etc., will always bring down the value of the item and are worth just a fraction of what an item in mint condition would be.

If you are looking for collectibles, here are a few pointers to watch for:

On items such as glassware, porcelain and pottery a good way to detect for chips is to run a finger around the rim and handle areas.

For glass items, hold it up to the light to look for hairline cracks. If the item is glass or has a handle make especially sure to check the base as these types of items are more prone to crack at the base.

Look at the surface for scratches or films that can be caused from harsh dish detergents. If you see a film, test it by getting it wet. If the film comes back after being dried then it’s permanent.

If you are interested in selling a collectible piece, it is always best to keep the box. Believe it or not, having the original box the item came in can sometimes increase the value. Why? We really don’t know why.

Keeping the boxes started back in the 1970’s. It was an advertising method where people would advertise “Mint in Box” (MIB) or “New in Box” (NIB). The intention was to convey the idea that the item has been unused and is still in the original factory condition regardless of age.

In my opinion, it really doesn’t make a difference whether you have the box or not. After all, what’s to keep a person from displaying the item for years and then when it’s time to sell, just put it back in the original box? Never the less, it’s a good idea to keep the boxes with your items.

People have been stuck on the theory that having the original box will bring more value and in reality, it does. But by all means, I would never turn down a good deal on a valuable collectible just because it didn’t have the box.

Just to clarify, there is nothing wrong with purchasing an item that may have a small crack or a few scratches. Just don’t pay a high price for something that is not in good condition.

Evelyn Whitaker writes articles for Deutsches Haus http://www.deutscheshaus.cc which is located in St. Paul, Minnesota. Deutsches Haus offers German collectibles, souvenirs, gifts and foods.

Did you know that doll collecting is rated as the second biggest collectible hobby in the United States?

With all the different doll manufacturers there are today, it can sometimes get confusing on what kind of doll is best to buy. Besides having to determine which manufacturer is the best one to go with, you then need to figure out which kind of doll is suited best for the purpose. Do you want a hand crafted doll, Artist doll, play doll, designer doll, licensed doll? It can get confusing.

Which manufacturer you go with is a matter of personal taste. Germany although, is known throughout the world for their quality made dolls. There have been many countries that have tried to follow but have never been able to match. To this day, Germany is still the leader in quality doll production.

No matter which manufacturer you decide to go with, there are still other considerations. The following is a list of the different types of dolls most manufacturers produce today.

Artist Dolls:
These dolls are specialty dolls often designed to look very much like a real child or person and are among the most expensive. Most often, they are produced in limited editions making it more affordable for the merchants and customers to buy. Newly made original Artist dolls can cost up to and over $5,000. That’s a hefty price to pay for most doll collectors. Once the dolls are sold out, the mold is broken and the dolls are not made again. This is another reason for the high price tag.

The artists that make these dolls usually have contracts with specific manufacturers. For example, Hildegard Guenzel is a well known artist that produces dolls for Goetz.

Artist dolls are not the type of doll you would want to buy for child’s play. These sorts of dolls are bought mostly by doll collectors between the ages of 30 - 45 and average in price of around $600 give or take a few hundred.

Variation Dolls:
These dolls can also be made by artists as well as the companies that manufacturer them. A variation doll is a doll that stays in production usually for a few years or longer. From year to year certain features of the doll may change. It may be something as simple as a different outfit, or the hair style or face shape may change a bit in the following year. Schildkroet is a good example of this. They carry a classic collection line of dolls which pretty much stays the same year after year. Each year you may see slight variations in the same dolls.

Variation dolls are not as expensive as Artist dolls. They can start as low as $40 on up to $500 or more.

Classic Collection Dolls:
Classic dolls are usually replicas of older dolls dating back to the late 1800’s to early 1900’s. I have even seen some replicas from earlier dates. They usually come in limited editions and average in prices from $100 - $500 depending on the manufacturer. These types of dolls are usually bought by people that remember having a doll of this sort as a child. These dolls should sit on a shelf for display only.

Hand Crafted Dolls:
These dolls can be manufactured by the companies themselves or sometimes you will even find these dolls designed by artists. Some can come with certificates and others wont. It can vary. These dolls can be played with and are usually a higher quality than the simple “play doll” varieties. Facial features may be more realistic and the materials are designed with play in mind, meaning you will find many of the soft bodied and bath babies in this category. These dolls are mostly bought for older children. Hand Crafted dolls are also sought after by collectors..

Licensed Dolls:
These dolls are dolls that the manufacturer has licensing rights to sell or produce. For example, Goetz manufacturers a “Harry Potter” doll under a special licensing agreement. Engel-Puppen has a special licensing agreement with Goebel to produce the Hummel dolls. These dolls can vary from expensive limited editions to play dolls.

Play Dolls:
Play dolls are made especially for children. They are designed to be dragged around by an arm, left lying on the floor for you to trip over, squeezed to death, spanked and thrown in a toy box.

There are hundreds of variations of play dolls. Some designed for a little less play in mind to the ones that couldn’t break if a bulldozer ran over it. Manufacturers of play dolls are always careful to make sure the dolls are made of non-toxic materials and flame retardant clothing. Most of these dolls are made especially soft for children’s play and includes the bath babies as well. Many of them are very easy to clean just by putting them in a tied pillow case and into the washing machine.

In closing, the doll you decide to purchase most likely will be one that just strikes you, no matter who made the doll. Most often, this is how dolls are purchased. You see a doll in the window that either reminds you of your childhood, or one that has a striking resemblance to a loved one. Many times, this is all it takes, and before you know it, you have the doll in your hands.

Evelyn Becker writes articles for Deutsches Haus http://www.deutscheshaus.cc which is located in St. Paul, Minnesota. Deutsches Haus offers German collectibles, souvenirs, gifts and foods.

In California you can find a shop called Goebel Miniatures where they produce miniature renditions of the M.I. Hummel figurines. These miniatures are about the size of a dime. This shop is the only shop and the sole producer of these little miniatures.

A few years before this shop came about, an artist by the name of Robert Olszewski made several miniature replicas of Hummel figurines in gold. He was not aware that he needed to get permission from Goebel in order to do this. Before Goebel found out about Robert’s work and stopped him, he had made the following five miniatures:

Barnyard Hero
Stormy Weather
Kiss Me
Ring Around the Rosie
Ride into Christmas

Robert had also made a few solid gold bracelets with each one of the above named miniatures attached. These bracelets and the unauthorized miniatures have since become highly sought after and are worth alot of money.

Goebel recognized Robert’s talent and realized there was a market for the miniatures. The interesting result was the birth of the Goebel Miniatures Shop where Robert was hired under contract with Goebel. As of 1994, Robert no longer works for Goebel.

When the very first Hummel miniatures were released in 1988, they all got a circular backstamp trademark which carried the mold number, the year and the name Olszewski along with Goebel’s name. These are also highly sought after.

People are sometimes surprised at the cost of these little miniatures. What most people don’t realize though what is all involved in creating these little treasures. First of all, they are not made of earthenware, but of bronze instead. It also takes the artist about 200 hours or more to carve the new creation in wax. The wax sculpture is then converted into a sterling silver master mold. From this silver mold the plaster molds are made and the moulten bronze is poured into these. The final steps is the painting and packaging.

Goebel Miniatures has made many other types of miniatures besides just the M.I. Hummels. Of the M.I. Hummels there was a series that they call “Kinder Way” It was a set of six little Bavarian buildings and settings that were all connected by little bridges and are named as follows:

Market Square
Flower Stand
Countryside School
Wayside Shrine
Bavarian Cottage
Bavarian Village

In early 1992 Goebel announced that the Kinder Way Bavarian Village settings would be permanently retired. They also announced that the production of the M.I. Hummel figurines miniatures would also be suspended indefinitely. To this day, Goebel has no plans to resume production of these cute little miniatures, although there have been at least three produced since 1992 as special editions only. They are:

Ring Around the Rosie
The Mail is Here
Honey Lover

M.I. Hummel miniatures are cute and different and add extensively to any Hummel collection. Robert Olszewski’s work is also highly sought after, so if you have any miniatures by him, you may want to consider hanging onto them!

Evelyn Whitaker writes articles for Deutsches Haus http://www.deutscheshaus.cc which is located in St. Paul, Minnesota. Deutsches Haus offers German collectibles, souvenirs, gifts and foods.