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Silver becomes tarnished from materials that contain sulfur. Some of the most common things that will cause your silver to tarnish are wool, felt, food (especially eggs and mayonnaise), rubber bands, latex and certain types of paints. If the atmosphere is humid, the tarnish will accelerate.

It is very important that when handling a silver item that your hands and fingers are not oily as the salts from the oil can leave permanent damage if not washed immediately.

Silver Cleaning Tips:
Always wash your silver by hand. If there is no tarnish on your silver, simply use a phosphate-free detergent to clean it. Washing and drying your silver immediately after using it will keep you from having to use tarnish removing tools less often. Be careful when washing in a metal sink as it could scratch your silver.

In the early stages of tarnish, your silver will have a yellowish tint. The darker in color this gets, the harder to remove. If left untouched, it will eventually turn black.

You can find most silver cleaning products at your local hardware store. Many of these cleaners have abrasives in them. One that we highly recommend is 3M’s Tarni-Shield Silver Polish as this has the least amount of abrasives and also contains a tarnish barrier to protect your silver from tarnishing.

Do not use polishes that have become hard or dried up. Dried up polishes are more concentrated and can hurt your silver.

Use a very soft cloth. Never use steel wool on silver. Steel wool is too abrasive and sometimes little particles from the wool get into the silver which will rust over time.

Never, never put silver in the dishwasher! There are several reasons for this. The most important being that the harsh detergent and hot water will simply ruin your silver. Patina that is sometimes applied to silver to give an antiqued finish will eventually come off in the dishwasher leaving your silver dull looking. The glue that is used on hollow knife handles will also melt at such high water temperatures. Silver that touches stainless in the dishwasher can also create a chemical reaction causing the silver to get black spots.

Silver Storage:
Your silver should be stored in an area that is free of dust.

You can delay the tarnishing process by using silica gel. These can be purchased in packets and will help to keep the humidity low, or you can purchase what is called a silica gel canister. These canisters have a built in indicator that lets you know moisture levels. A second alternative to using silica gel would be to gently wrap your silver in soft tissue (preferably acid free) and then store it in a Ziploc bag. And a third option would be to wrap your silver in a special cloth that absorbs sulfur. Pacific Silvercloth is one brand that can be used.

Never wrap your silver in newspaper or use rubber bands to bind it. These items react with silver and causes discoloration to the extent that you may have to have your silver professionally cleaned. Using plastic wrap is also not a good idea as plastic can contain tarnishing producing materials. When using cardboard boxes, use only archival ones. The non-archival ones have acids in them that will quickly tarnish

Evelyn Becker writes articles for Deutsches Haus http://www.deutscheshaus.cc which is located in St. Paul, Minnesota. Deutsches Haus offers German collectibles, souvenirs, gifts and foods.

It can sometimes be difficult to know how to clean your cherished collectible without causing harm. The following is a simple guideline for you to help you learn which way is the best way to care for your doll.

Porcelain Dolls:
With porcelain, the decorations are usually fired on, so it would be unlikely that that you would hurt them by cleaning. Use warm soapy water. If this doesn’t work good enough, try a wet eraser to remove marks. As a last resort, very, very gently clean with a low abrasive cleaner such as Tilex or Soft Scrub. Use caution because some cleansers have bleaching agents that could be devastating to antique clothing, wigs or bodies. Ultra violet rays can be very damaging to porcelain dolls, so when you are displaying your doll, avoid direct sunlight.

Celluloid Dolls:
These dolls are extremely perishable. They are easily broken and can become very brittle over time. Proper care and respect of a celluloid doll helps a perfect example remain in that condition. Heat is celluloid’s worst enemy. Keep these dolls in a cool room with good ventilation – and never store celluloid in a sealed case – it can combust!

Cloth Dolls:
Vintage cloth dolls can be worth thousands of dollars and deserve your best efforts to preserve them and prevent needless deterioration. Keeping the fabric clean is important because it’s exposing the fabric to pollutants that will weaken the material. Direct sunlight is not good for these dolls. You should also inspect your cloth dolls every now and then for insects. There are insecticides designed especially for textiles under many brands and the results can be excellent if used according to instructions.

If you decide to vacuum your doll, place a nylon screen over the fabric first to protect the delicate fibers. Most often, a good vacuuming is enough to restore a doll to display condition. If you doll is badly soiled, get the advice of a professional who specializes in preserving textiles.

Sometimes you can use an eraser or art gum, tapeten and reinger-and-absorene to clean your cloth doll. These seem to give the best results. Ink can be removed with hairspray, but first test an area on the doll to assure that no damage will occur. Apply the hair spray with a cloth, and wipe in a light rubbing motion with a clean white cloth.

For display purposes, it is best to keep them in protective cases and inspect them regularly. Moth crystals should be placed near your dolls. Many collectors recommend making a small cloth pouch, filling it with moth crystals and placing it under the doll’s hat or tying it around its waist beneath the clothing.

Composition and paper-mache Dolls:
These dolls pretty much require the same care as the cloth type dolls. They are especially susceptible to damage from temperature changes. Never store composition or paper-mache dolls in a hot or cold attic, or in a damp basement.

Most collectors will accept some signs of aging on composition dolls – fine craze lines or cracked eyes, for example.

There are many popular ways for cleaning composition, but first always test it on an inconspicuous area of the doll and work quickly – never leave any cleaning agent on the doll for any length of time. Pond’s Cold Cream or Vaseline and a soft tissue work well for these dolls. Another option is paste window cleaner but not the ammonia type. You want the old fashioned paste that you can get at most hardware stores.

Wigs can be restyled after spraying with Johnson’s & Johnson’s No More Tangles. Faded or worn-off facial features can be touched up with artist’s colored pencils. When moistened, they are very easy to apply. Crackled eyes are best left alone.

Hard Plastic Dolls:
These types of dolls are very resilient and can be cleaned with almost any soap detergent. You can clean stubborn stains with cold cream or waterless hand cleaner. Avoid chlorine, bleach and ammonia. Never use fingernail polish remover or lacquer thinner which may eat into the plastic! You can use Oxy-10 to remove stains that are not close to painted surfaces. Just moisten a cotton ball and allow it to sit on the stain for several hours. You may have to repeat this process several times. After each cleaning, wash the doll with mild soap and rinse well.

For displaying purposes, avoid direct exposure to ultraviolet light. Although they may seem indestructible, hard plastic can slowly oxidize and change color and direct heat can also cause warping.

Rubber Dolls:
These dolls will deteriorate no matter what precautions you take, but you can delay the process. Any form of grease is harmful and accelerates deterioration. If you have a “Magic Skin Doll” always wear cotton gloves when handling her. Rubbing corn starch on these kinds of dolls twice a year will help to preserve the dolls’ life. Maintain an even temperature and avoid changes in humidity.

Tin Dolls:
These dolls often have chipped paint which can happen from the metal getting cold which in turn causes the paint to lift off the face. Try to keep these dolls in a constant temperature environment.

Vinyl Dolls:
Vinyl dolls are probably the most lifelike in appearance and touch. In order to keep them looking that way, special care is needed. Extreme room temperatures are harmful. Even quality vinyl dolls subjected to heaters or air conditioners can be damaged in just a few months. Direct sunlight can be deadly. Vinyl is also sensitive to fluorescent light; use indirect non-fluorescent lights. Finally, avoid tightly sealed show cases or glass domes because condensation can form and damage vinyl dolls.

Wooden Dolls:
Chipping paint is a major problem with wooden dolls. Humidity and mistreatment are the two main culprits. Keep wooden dolls in a dry atmosphere. Expanding and contracting associated with high humidity causes paint to chip. Knocks and bumps can also chip paint, so take care in moving or displaying wooden dolls.

Wax Dolls:
Wax dolls can be intimidating to many collectors. They do require special care, but so do all types of dolls. Basic care and common sense will help preserve a wax doll in perfect condition. Of course, never place a wax doll in direct sunlight or near any heat source, such as a fireplace mantle.

The best way to start cleaning these types of dolls is to use a solution of cool water and Woolite. Saturate a cotton ball or a Q-tip and wash the wax. If this doesn’t work, try a dab of cold cream on a Q-tip, followed by a rinse of the Woolite solution and then clean, cool water. As a last resort, try denatured alcohol on a cotton ball, followed by a through rinsing. Never use turpentine to clean wax dolls because it can soften the wax!

Tips for Barbie Doll Collectors:
Remember those Barbie Dolls with the earrings and how it would eventually create green deposits around the ear? Here’s a way to remove it:

Cover the ears with a small piece of cotton soaked in Tarn-X silver cleaner. Wrap the head in saran wrap to keep the application moist. Check after two days. If the ears are still green, replace the saran wrap. If, the ears are still green after four days, repeat the procedure with fresh cotton balls. Once the green is gone, rub a paste of baking soda and water over the treated areas. After several days, flake off the dried baking soda and clean the area with warm, soapy water on a Q-tip. Tarn-X causes a chemical reaction that acts as a bleach; the baking soda neutralizes the reaction; and the warm, soapy water removes any residue. It is important to perform each step as described and to inspect the doll periodically throughout the process.

Bubble cut Barbies often have sticky or greasy faces. This is due to an ingredient being emitted by the vinyl. Here’s a tip to take care of that:

Carefully remove the head from the body and clean inside and out with a Q-tip soaked in alcohol. Dry it good and fill the head cavity with baking soda. Then replace it on the body. The baking soda will neutralize the chemicals and absorb the extracted grease.

Old Tips Recommended By Some Doll Collectors

- To remove mildew: soak in sour milk and salt. Then lay the doll in the sun. To remove milk therapy, follow with a warm soapy water wash and rinse.

- To restore color to faded cloth: sponge with chloroform.

- To soften old kid: saturate an old woolen rag with kerosene and rub in the kid.

- To clean old ivory: scrub with Ivory soap; bleach in the sun for several days, reapplying the soapy solution often.

- To remove tar: clean first with turpentine, then clean with Lux soap.

- To remove paint: Patient rubbing with chloroform.

- To restore faded calico: wash in water with a teaspoon of sugar of lead; soak for fifteen minutes and launder.

- Black taffeta is best washed in strong tea.

Hopefully, we given you some helpful information!

Evelyn Whitaker writes articles for Deutsches Haus http://www.deutscheshaus.cc which is located in St. Paul, Minnesota. Deutsches Haus offers German collectibles, souvenirs, gifts and foods.

Steins have been around since the 13th century. They are beautiful pieces of art and fun to collect. In this newsletter we are focusing on the different types of steins and their characteristics.

Mettlach Steins:
These steins are made of stoneware and range in size from 1/4 liter to 4 liters in size. They are the most well known and range from just a couple hundred dollars to many thousands depending on the type, size and rarity. They usually are etched, hand painted or have a type of “print under the glass”. After 1970, collections of Mettlach steins were started in many major museums in the United States, Hamburg, Amsterdam and many other other well known places. They can have either ceramic or pewter lids and are all beautifully decorated. They are highly sought after today.

There are many look-alike Mettlach Steins out there. These are also beautiful, but if you are only interested in the genuine ones, then here’s a couple of things to look for…

- One way to tell the difference between a real Mettlach stein and a look-alike is the glaze. If you look closely, you will notice that the real Mettlach will have kind of a matt type finish (that rarely crazes) where as the look-alikes seem to have a more thickish shinier glaze.

- Another way to tell if you have an authentic Mettlach stein is to look at the fluid level marking. Usually right next to the incised liter size, a Mettlach stein will have a “painted on” fluid mark in the form of a somewhat straight line. On a look-alike it will usually be an “incised” line.

There are several other ways to tell what you really have too, but can get quite detailed. The above two methods I mention are two of the “quick tell” ways and one of the first things collectors will usually look for.

Regimental Steins:
These steins reflect the time period between 1870 to 1914 and are mostly made of porcelain. These steins were the result of the Franco-Prussian War (1840-1871). After the war, the Imperial German Armed Forces was broken into six different divisions (Infantry, Cavalry, Technician Troops, Artillery, Colonial Guard and Supply Train) and the Navy. This is where the scenes you see on these types of steins come from. Military service during this time was considered an honor and when a reservist’s time of active duty was finished, they were sold one of these steins. The soldier would receive one of these steins of his choice and decorations which usually reflected the division he was in. After that, they became valued family heirlooms.

Many of these steins will have a translucent picture, called a “lithophane,” in the bottom of the stein which when you are drinking the last of your beer, you will see some sort of picture on the bottom.

Today, authentic regimental steins (the reproduced ones) are made in Bavaria and can cost from a few hundred to thousands of dollars depending on the rarity and condition. Steins from medical, airships and railroad units are considered more valuable than those from infantry, cavalry or machine gun units.

Character Steins:
These steins are unique, desirable and fall into the same price ranges as the regimental steins. You will usually find these in the shapes of faces, animals, towers, buildings or whatever the artist decided to make. Usually, the head or the roof is the lid. Most of these types of steins are made from porcelain, but you can also find stoneware and even some made of pewter. A lot of the porcelain steins also have lithophanes in their bases just like the regimental ones do. They are more of a novelty type of stein.

Stoneware Westerwald (Western Forest) Steins:
These are the bluish type stoneware steins that are made in the Western Forest part of Germany just southeast of Cologne. The Western Forest is famous for its quality stoneware and the steins that you see from here are the heavy-duty steins that they use in the Munich beer gardens and bars all over Germany. These steins have become Germany’s most popular souvenirs and you can find these at reasonable prices which can be anywhere from a few dollars to a few hundred dollars.

Steins have also been made out of wood, ivory and believe it or not, coconut shells. Then there’s the gold, silver and pewter steins which have been made for centuries.

Many people enjoy collecting steins as there are so many different types all at different price ranges. Whether you are a beginner or an expert, there’s always something that’s sure to catch your eye!

Evelyn Becker writes articles for Deutsches Haus http://www.deutscheshaus.cc which is located in St. Paul, Minnesota. Deutsches Haus offers German collectibles, souvenirs, gifts and foods.

When you get bit by the coin collecting bug you may find yourself spending many of your waking hours on your coin collection. You have a lot of time and money invested in this hobby of yours so you need to be as careful as you can with your collection. You need to make sure you do not hurt the value of your coins by mishandling them in any way. Make sure you do not expose your coins to the elements or store them improperly. Be careful when handling your coin collection and only clean your coins if you know what you are doing. This article will look at some of the things you can do to ensure your coins value does not go down.

The place you decide to keep your coin collection will have a major effect on their condition. The temperate and humidity need to be as close to normal as possible. Storing your coin collection in a cold garage or basement or a hot attic is not going to help keep your coins in good shape. Dry conditions should always be a priority. Wet coins may oxidize. Keep your coins in the proper atmosphere and keep them in the proper holders. Your coin collection should stay in good shape for years to come under these proper conditions.

Make sure your coins are stored in proper storage containers. Although the choices for storage are many chose something that will give your coin collection safe storage for the long haul. Choose something sturdy and strong as the place you store your coins. Keeping your coins safely tucked away in your coin storage choice helps with another problem faced by the coin collector, handling your coins.

Constantly getting your coin collection out of the storage device is hard on your coins. Your hands contain oil, and it is all too easy to accidentally scratch that prized coin with your fingernail. Excessive handling of your coin collection could cause the coins to discolor or show excess wear. You have worked hard to acquire all of those great finds so try your best to keep them in the same shape they were when you got them.

Do not try to clean your coin collection if you do not have the knowledge to do so. Many a coin has been ruined by improper cleaning methods. Always seek out an expert before you do any coin cleaning.

Keep your coin collection in good shape and it will reward you when the time comes to sell off your collection. It sometimes can be hard work to find that perfect coin so do your best to keep it in great shape.

For more information on how to value coins using a coin value guide visit http://www.find-coins.com where will find useful tips, articles and resources to help you find old coins.